'The industry is evolving all the time': Two new restaurants opening in Cork town 

It is Sunday evening, and it is a picture-perfect postcard scene in Ballycotton, which is a favourite spot for walkers, anglers, and foodies.

This evening, Cush is hosting its last food service after five years in the restaurant business before relocating to the former Sage restaurant premises in Midleton.

The staff are enjoying a glass of bubbly as they look forward to the new venture opening on March 15.

“The restaurant is moving, but we’re not moving the bar, or the B&B,” says Doireann O’Flynn, front of house.

They will still cater for the day-trippers, the holidaymakers, and the picnickers that frequent the 9km coastal walking path from Ballycotton to Ballinadreen, with its thick carpet of grass and gorse overlooking the Celtic Sea.

“Yes, we are opening a café here on the premises, which will be a great facility for locals and visitors alike,” says Doireann.

Head Chef Dan Guerin loves the domain of the kitchen.

“I love cooking for people,” he says. “I’ve been doing what I love since I was a young fellow.”

He has achieved a lot since he was a young fellow.

“Receiving the esteemed Michelin Bib Gourmand was a huge achievement for us,” says Dan, who is looking forward to the next chapter in the larger premises on Main Street, Midleton.

“We’ve been on an incredible journey together for the last 15 years with Cush, and we are looking forward to the next chapter.

“Being recognised by industry peers on several occasions is great.

“But what has always mattered most to us is delivering a top-quality dining experience to our loyal customers in east Cork and beyond, so it’s a fantastic opportunity to bring Cush to Midleton where we can expand on our offering in a beautiful premises.”

Walking into Cush Midleton on the Monday morning to view the new interior, it is indeed a beautiful premises. Sage chef Kevin Aherne had put his own unique stamp on his restaurant here. Now a new chapter is in the making.

“The fabulous oranges and leaf green colours make a dramatic splash, creating a really good vibe,” says painting contractor Stewart Campbell, who has lived in Rathcormac for 20 years.

I take it he is not of this parish?

“What do you think with a name like mine?” says the cheerful Scot, from Loch Lomand, happy at work painting the smooth walls atop his ladder.

“After 20 years, I am institutionalised into the Cork ways!”

Things are looking good at Cush Midleton ahead of the grand opening on St Patrick’s Day.

The brown plush couches invite patrons to relax and chill out before their fine dining or casual dining experience.

Cush, owned by the O’Flynn group, has always prided itself on serving up the freshest, locally produced food at its best.

Local man John Walsh, dad to Cush manager, John, is happy at work too.

“I was drafted in to put the last few things in place,” says John, who is also a master painter and decorator. “We are nearly there.”

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Things are looking up in Midleton, the east Cork town that was devastated by floods 16 months ago, and that bounced back with the help of great community spirit and goodwill.

Bó, across the way from Cush, is a newly-opened burger t owned by Dave and Fionnula Smiddy, from Dungourney, who also own brunch spot Pan on the main street.

Bó is also serving tapas and sharing board options at mid-range prices.

Business is brisk at the American-like diner that boasts original church pews and comfortable coffee-sack pillows.

“The weekend was very busy,” says chef Matthew Stafford, who worked with master chef Kevin Aherne in his Midleton restaurant.

“I also worked with Kevin in his food production unit in Douglas, and I’ve spent time working in Chapter 1 in Dublin,” adds Matthew.

Were the team at Bó flustered or in any way apprehensive seeing the queues outside the door when they opened midweek?

“The main nerves for us was making sure we hit the market right,” says Matthew.

“But that said, Dave and Fionnula have established themselves well in Midleton with Pan over the past seven years, so we know what we’re doing and how to keep customers coming back.”

The master chefs were backed up with food orders when they opened.

“We did about 800 burgers over the space of three days!”

That is pretty impressive, isn’t it?

“That’s pretty good for a new local business,” Matthew agrees. “And we’ve had pretty good as well.”

The feta cheese dip and fresh focaccia bread Matthew offers me while awaiting owner Dave, is pretty good as well.

“There are four of us in the kitchen and five to six staff out front,” says Matthew, who, like with Cush, promotes locally sourced fresh ingredients.

“This has been our baby for the last six months.

“Crowley’s butchers provide us with minced beef for our burgers, We like to deal with O’Farrell’s butchers too,” says Matthew.

“Cuthberts are our bakers, and our milk comes from Rostellan Farm. Walls’ chips are from Ballynookera. It’s all good. The big thing for Bó is that it is all local.”

Mahers coffee is good too.

“We’ll have our wine and beer licence soon,” adds Matthew.

Dave Smiddy, who has two grown-up children in college, was raised on a farm, and he has been in the hospitality business, running restaurants in Cork and Limerick for 20 years.

“My main job was dealing in figures and finance,” says Dave.

“I wanted to relate to people and get to know people.”

No better way to do that than to go into business for himself.

“We opened Pan seven years ago and we have always been ed by the people of east Cork,” says Dave.

“During the floods and in the aftermath, the community spirit was amazing. People were still helping each other out days after the flood happened.”

Dave says lifestyle changes have replaced the traditional Irish pub culture of yesteryear. Many people now seek out good company, or who like to go walking on the Greenway, or meet up for coffee.

“The Irish hospitality industry is evolving all the time,” says Dave.

“Now, people meet for breakfast, for brunch, or for a walk. The pubs adapted accordingly with many of them serving food that didn’t do so before.

“People are adapting and enjoying outings now that don’t have to be an ‘occasion’. You don’t necessarily have to dress up. I like to think people will say, ‘We won’t bother cooking tonight. Let’s go out’.”

Dave agrees the east Cork town of Midleton, on its knees two years ago, is firmly back on its feet. “The town has moved on with the times,” he says.

“Housing is growing. Midleton has the same positive vibrant vibe that Cork city has. The rail service and the greenway have really added to the town.

“Midleton is almost an offspring of the city. I decided if I was opening another restaurant, I would do it right and give the people what they want ,which is good service and quality food.”

Bó’s spacious interior, designed by local brand designer Fran Walsh, has been buzzing every evening since its launch. Others involved in the work included B&R Construction, Elite painters, Conor Hickey Electrical, Hennessy Higgins Carpentry, Aidan McGuckian Plumbing, Abbey Owney Furniture, Kavanagh Refrigeration, and Cork Bar & Catering.

It is furnished with a range of different-sized booths, a bar counter decked with wines and drinks on tap. I am sitting on a restored wooden pew that came from the Capuchin College in Rochestown, with comfy coffee sack-cloth cushions at my back.

Did opening a new local business when numerous ones were casualties of covid and flooding seem like a bridge too far at the time?

“I am driven,” says Dave. “I am prepared to work a lot of hours, and I do work a lot of hours. I think, if you own your own business, you are never off. There is no honeymoon period. You are always steering the ship.”

Dave knows hard work is a vital ingredient for success.

“A bit of luck always helps too,” he adds with a smile.

“Our team, our work ethic, and our location are important elements of our success.”

Ambition helps too perhaps?

“Yes, I would say that I am quite ambitious,” says Dave, 52. Time means nothing to him.

“Time is something on the clock,” he says. “I know life balance is hard to come by. Some manage to get it right.”

Job satisfaction is not hard to come by for Dave.

“I am happy with my lot and with self-fulfilment.

“I like dealing with people and I like working with a good solid enthusiastic team.

“That is what we have here. I wouldn’t change anything.”