'Everything you bought could be monogrammed': Dressing the gentlemen of Cork and beyond 

It reputedly dressed George Bernard Shaw and Fred Astaire and escaped relatively unscathed during the Burning of Cork. Linda Kenny finds out about the local business which was clothing gentlemen with 'deep pockets' in Cork and London at the turn of the century. 
'Everything you bought could be monogrammed': Dressing the gentlemen of Cork and beyond 

JFK ing Fitzgerald Menswear in 1963. An iconic photo, taken by Jimmy Maher, who took up his position hours before the motorcade ed to the get the Fitzgerald sign behind JFK. Perfect timing. He gifted this photo to the shop a few months afterwards. Image provided by Fitzgerald Menswear

A quick google search of the name Michael Fitzgerald will unearth everything from politician and psychiatrist to hurler.

But nothing comes up about the innovative entrepreneur and visionary whose high-quality tailoring would see a quasi-humble business on 44 Patrick Street export 90% of its stock to luxury markets in the UK and Europe in the late 1900s.

Fitzgerald’s first opened its doors in 1860 and, apart from a relocation in 1961 to bigger premises on 24 Patrick Street, has continued to serve the discerning male shoppers of Cork since then.

Michael Fitzgerald, tailor, hosier and glover, was someone with an unshakeable sense of purpose and a deep-seated belief in his new business venture.

From the get-go, he had identified who he wanted his customers to be and pitched his advertising and shop windows accordingly.

He made suits and shirts to measure for the discerning, affluent gentlemen of Cork, who had good taste, deep pockets, and an innate appreciation of both quality of product and great customer service.

An old newspaper advert states Fitzgerald’s stocked “hosiery of every description” from “gentlemen’s vests, drawers and pants”, to “shooting socks, chamois leather hunting drawers, silk and lawn pocket handkerchiefs, shirt collars, umbrellas, braces, ties, and Paris-made kid gloves.”

The ambitious businessman also extended his business to London where he had two shops, selling beautiful silk top hats and headwear, that were made and supplied by Christie’s of London, alongside his trademark bespoke shirts and suits, bow ties, Irish linen underwear, Irish poplin ties and soft kid gloves.

“Before the ready-made explosion, everything was made to measure.

“Everything you bought could also be monogrammed for you,” says Eddie Mullins, owner of Fitzgerald Menswear for the past 25 years.

To complement his business, Michael’s flagship premises on 44 Patrick Street also boasted its own laundry as well as a sewing salon.

The latter, proudly called Mrs Fitzgerald’s Fancy Needlework Factory, was run by Michael’s wife and managed not only the design aspect of the shirt factory but also offered “all the newest designs of needlework from crests and coats of arms to selling photograph albums and materials for needlework.”

Having both his Cork and London shops on his shop signage proved a particular advantage during the 1920 burning of Cork, where the premises narrowly escaped unscathed believed to be because of his English connections.

They always seemed to be ahead of the game.

They were the first to employ female shop assistants.

Even during the Second World War, when the importation of fabrics was restricted due to the prevailing global instability, Fitzgerald’s wrote to customers explaining the situation and advised them not to throw out any old shirts but to bring them into the shop to be revived with new collars and cuffs.

“A few years ago, the University of Dallas ed us regarding a collection they had received of theatrical-style shirts, replete with frilly cuffs and the engraved monogram GBS. Apparently, George Bernard Shaw was a frequent visitor to the London shop as it was located next door to the Communist office.”

Fred Astaire reputedly also loved to buy his silk top hats in the Cork shop.

“Recently a gentleman sent me a picture of a pristine silk hat that he had bought in a vintage fair over in London. He was a punk, and wears it all the time, in his own unique way.

“That’s the evolution of the hat,” laughs Eddie.

A lucrative market for the business at the time was the production of military shirts and uniforms for the officers in Collins Barracks.

The card of replacement buttons for the Essex regiment. 
The card of replacement buttons for the Essex regiment. 

However, they did find a card of replacement buttons for the Essex regiment at the bottom of an old button box.

Interestingly, in the Great Exhibition that took place in Fitzgerald Park in 1902, Fitzgerald Menswear received a “gold medal for their shirts and Indian outfits”.

“We also found out the actual location of our stall at that exhibition too which, along with the medal, is a great bit of history,” says Eddie proudly.

“It goes to show what they were manufacturing at that time. Even the logistics of being able to ship product to London and beyond is impressive.

“Historically you went to your tailor for your suitings and for your shirts to be made,” says Eddie.

“Suits were heavy and made to last years. Cuffs and collars were replaceable and there was an emphasis on durability and quality.”

The 1950s was a transformative time.

Fitzgerald Menswear has been dressing men in Cork since 1860. 
Fitzgerald Menswear has been dressing men in Cork since 1860. 

There was a move from more bespoke clothes to off-the-peg.

Fitzgerald’s embraced the change and began importing brands like Crombie and Daks Simpson.

Suits were sold for the equivalent of €2,000 in today’s money, so while they were off-the-rack, they were clearly still aimed at the higher-spending client.

At that time, there were no taxis and the postal service was pretty poor so every shop in the city had a delivery boy.

“Three years ago, a gentleman popped in to buy a suit and have a look around,” explained Eddie.

“He said he was the Fitzgerald’s delivery boy when he was 15 years of age.

“He ed the friendly rivalry between all the delivery boys of the city and the bicycle races they had down Patrick’s Hill.”

Eddie says that Christmas was always huge for the shop, kicking off on December 8 “when the country people came to town”.

“It still is big for us. Every Christmas Eve, I take a few moments off the busy shop floor and head up to the balcony on first floor to take in the festive urgency of the Christmas shoppers below.”

It was on that same balcony that the international press core congregated for John (Fitzgerald) Kennedy’s visit to Cork, on June 29, 1963.

According to Joe Fitzgerald, Eddie’s predecessor, an advance security delegation visitng Cork prior to JFK’s visit was highly amused at the idea of a shop having the same name as the President.

“The business ed down through the generations of the Fitzgerald family until I took it over from Michael’s grandson Joe Fitzgerald, 25 years ago.

“I’m very proud of the history of the business and I see myself as its guardian,” insists Eddie.

“We have three retail floors now and a tailor room for alterations. We still do a bit of made-to-measure, keeping the tradition going.

“We have a great relationship with the people of Cork who continue to us. They see us as part of the fabric of the city. For that I’m so grateful.”

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